A trip through Iran a few years ago. We wanted to see the desert, and a friend booked us a bus. It was an 8-hour drive, with almost exclusively young people in their mid-20s and mid-30s. We set off and left the city. After about an hour, the curtains were closed, the microphone was circulated for introductions, and electronic music wafted from the speakers. A small, installed
The lighting system was at its best. Now we realized where we'd ended up. A party bus. Here, the journey truly was the destination. Since such parties, including dancing, are forbidden in Iran or would bring the moral police into action, everything had to be done in secret. We, the odd ones out on the bus, were encouraged to "open the dance floor." It was kind of cool, but also a queasy feeling, since a few people were constantly filming and taking photos. You know you're doing something harmless, but also forbidden. And you develop a paranoia. Is everyone on the bus really on the "right" side? Will there be problems if we appear on any footage?
One of the two guides always sits up front next to the driver and keeps an eye out for police checks. When the warning is given, everyone sits as they should, the women put on their headscarves, and everything seems like a normal tour group. Then the all-clear is given, and the party continues. Until we reach a checkpoint at night. You can tell from the guides that something is different than usual. The total tension and uncertainty rubs off on everyone. We delete all pictures and videos because we don't want to endanger anyone. Everyone gets out. The bus is searched for an hour. We hope that no one has hidden alcohol anywhere. Then we would all have a real problem. But everything goes well. Everyone is allowed back on the bus except us. There is an extra check. Then we are allowed back, and the journey continues, quietly at first and then loudly again.
Back in Europe, one once again realizes what a stable, democratic and liberal system we live in. Sure, the rules and laws in Iran are what they are, and that must be respected. But the certainty of operating in a constitutional environment that assesses and judges fairly is much more pronounced here.
